Labubu charms may look like mischievous pixies, but they’ve taken the fashion world by storm. Stylists take you through how this once-popular collectible became a trendy accessory, and why we’re obsessed.
It’s got fangs and pointy ears. And, somehow, it’s made it to Fashion Week. Labubu – the furry little leprechaun you’ve seen hanging from Prada bags on the subway, clutched like a little Prada bag – is all the rage. It’s weird, and it’s wonderful.
What started as a hot collectible by Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung has evolved into a bona fide fashion mascot. Valentino gave them away at a pop-up store in Dubai. Blackpink’s Lisa, Dua Lipa and even Rihanna have been spotted wearing them. Labubu charms have also gone from niche to must-have, like blinking an eyeball.
You’ll find Laboo hanging out with people who love to mix Loro Piana and Crocs platform shoes, who celebrate understated luxury and who light up when they see Claire’s Accessories glitter pen. It’s a playful rebellion against the serious and rigid fashion of recent seasons – reminding us that fashion, at its best, should be fun.
And it’s not just Gen Z who are collecting. Fashion editor and stylist Harriet Davey admits that she was first exposed to the trend by her 11-year-old niece – a seemingly ignorant question that triggered a two-hour queue at Pop Mart. “I didn’t understand it at first. They were just weird little keychains, ugly, but cute,” she said.
“Well, after queuing with hundreds of people, I’d say the biggest surprise was the surprise of unboxing, not knowing what colour it would be. But seeing the look of excitement on my niece’s face when I got the sold-out keychain made the hours of waiting worth it.”
So why has the fashion world become obsessed with something so peculiar? Cultural strategist Nina Maria believes it started as an insider status symbol. Early fans used a touch of ironic ugliness to assert their individuality. “It was niche; it meant you were different,” she says. “Then K-pop stars got involved and it took off. Now they’re harder to get than Glastonbury tickets.”
While luxury brands like Loewe and Balenciaga have also launched playful bag charms, Labubu offers a unique experience – the thrill of a treasure hunt. Buying a Labubu is more than a transaction, it’s an unforgettable experience.
There’s also the financial appeal. In an age when “accessible luxury” means £600 sunglasses, the £25 Labubu bag is a more accessible way to make a fashion statement. As Maria puts it: “We can’t afford new bags, but we can afford accessories that make them more interesting.”
Then there’s the look. Yes, the Labubu is cute – but not in a heart-breakingly sweet way, or in a soft Sanrio way. It’s ugly-cute. Slightly grotesque, but oddly cute. “It’s more like Mary Jane,” she adds. “Ugly at first glance, super cute at second. That potential fits fashion very well.”