The ’90s are all the rage, with fashion and beauty trends to envy. But let’s focus on the latter: from hair to makeup to nails, every detail was meticulously crafted, bold and uninhibited.
Today’s trends are leaning towards a similarly low-key aesthetic, and this season’s nostalgia trend is in full swing with the return of the ’90s updo. From Pamela Anderson to Gwyneth Paltrow to Halle Berry, some of the most beloved ’90s stars have sported this timeless hairstyle, and now it’s making a strong comeback.
Last month, Tyla wowed on the red carpet at the CFDA Awards in a throwback look from Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 1996 collection for Gucci.
The bold retro look wasn’t the only thing about this outfit: the South African singer’s perfectly tousled updo was also a highlight. It was reminiscent of Rihanna’s recent look at the Moncler show in Shanghai with boyfriend A$AP Rocky. What do the two have in common? Celebrity hairstylist Yusef Williams.
“When designing Tyla’s CFDA look, we were inspired by the timeless elegance and bold glamour of the ’90s,” Fenty Hair Global Stylist tells L’OFFICIEL. “Tyla and I talked a lot about that era—specifically referencing iconic supermodels like Tyra Banks.
One photo stuck in our minds.” The return of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show further amplified the look, which captured the singer’s performance glamour during her eye-catching return to the runway.
The look not only pays homage to the era’s icons, but also embodies the essence of the era’s aesthetic. “The ’90s Tom Ford aesthetic for Gucci also played a big role,” Williams added. “That era was about fearless sexiness and sophistication, and we wanted to reflect that through her hair.” The result? A sculptural yet effortless chignon – one that captures the glamour of that pivotal era, while foreshadowing its resurgence today.
Reflecting on the cyclical nature of beauty trends, Williams believes that “beauty styles always find a way to repeat themselves” and the 90s are no exception. He believes the return of relevant trends from that era is inevitable, adding that it’s now just a matter of “when and how”.
You’ll see French rolls, chignons and pin-up looks on his mood boards, which he describes as “classic hairstyles that we’ll never change the name of”. But right now, he’s having fun experimenting with these hairstyles in a modern way, with texture, volume and creative details.
To create a 90s-inspired updo, Williams advises not to rush it, but to take a systematic yet flexible, sectioned approach to avoid these pitfalls. “A common mistake is trying to do it all at once.
Always work in three sections, starting with the base. A solid foundation is key to any hairstyle,” he explains. With the base color in place, the second section focuses on shaping and securing to build structure, followed by the third section for the finishing touches for a sophisticated look.
To create this look, Williams always starts with a solid foundation. “I used Fenty Hair’s 5-in-1 Protective Heat Protectant Styling Cream to protect the hair and prevent frizz while styling,” he explains. He then parted the top center of the hair to create a different look that could be incorporated into a French curl.
The sides and back of the hair were secured with large bobby pins while a thickening edge control gel was used to keep the hairline smooth. “It’s great for a sleek, clean look,” Williams adds, noting that he uses a side wand for precision. Whether securing the hair or adding creative edge designs, this ensures every detail of the updo is flawless.
One of his key tips is to let go of the pursuit of perfection and fully indulge in the effortless, natural feel of this signature style. “Leaning into the messy—you want that ‘messy’ look to be effortless, so I never start with a clear direction,” he says. “It just blends naturally based on how the hair falls.”
His go-to tools include a large curling iron and a few large hairpins. (Williams was named Fenty Hair’s global stylist in September, so naturally, he uses Fenty Hair products most often.)
If you’re dying to try this look but are worried it won’t last, don’t worry: Williams says the key to keeping your ’90s updo perfect all night long is in the details, namely precise pin placement and plenty of hairspray to keep it in place.
To create a sleek hairline and keep hair in place, he recommends using a hairspray, which he calls a “game changer.” The right products and techniques are essential to creating the perfect look, creating a timeless, trend-setting hairstyle that will keep you looking great from morning to night.
“The ’90s are an iconic era of femininity and bold self-expression; qualities that are both timeless and relevant,” Williams says, explaining why the style has managed to stay relevant across decades. He’s also a big fan of ’90s braids, voluminous curls and edgy updos. This is reflected in the work he does for high-end clients.
“I’m so happy to be a part of the beauty world today because my clients are so into self-expression and creativity. They’re fearless. Rihanna is one of them – it feels like we’ve tried every hairstyle, colour and cut, and we’re always pushing boundaries and taking inspiration from past eras.”
Inspiration often comes from within, and Williams encourages you to tap into your roots – literally. “It’s always a good idea to look through old photos and see how your mum and aunts styled their hair and see if you can recreate it,” he shares some tips for hair inspiration. “Don’t be afraid to be your own trendsetter – personal inspiration is the best source of creativity.”