These plush charms may look like mischievous pixies, but they’ve taken the fashion world by storm. Stylist’s style columnist spoke to experts to uncover why this cult collectible is the new must-have accessory and why we’re so obsessed.
It’s got fangs and pointy ears. And, somehow, it’s worthy of a Fashion Week entry.
Raboo — the furry little leprechaun you’ve seen hanging from a Prada bag on the subway, clutched like a little Prada bag — is all the rage. It’s weird, and it’s wonderful.
What started as a hot collectible created by Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung has evolved into a bona fide fashion mascot. Valentino is giving them away at a pop-up store in Dubai.
Blackpink’s Lisa, Dua Lipa and even Rihanna have been spotted wearing them. Labubu charms have also made the leap from niche to must-have, like a beady eyeball in the blink of an eye.
You’ll find Labubu alongside those who love to mix Loro Piana and Crocs platform shoes, who celebrate understated luxury and who light up when they see Claire’s Accessories glitter.
It’s a playful rebellion against the serious and rigid fashion of recent seasons – reminding us that fashion, at its best, should be fun.
Depop is always the first to spot micro-trends before they explode, reporting a 376% increase in searches for Labubu since December alone.
And it’s not just Gen Z who are collecting the craze. Fashion editor and stylist Harriet Davey admits that she was first exposed to the craze by her 11-year-old niece – a seemingly ignorant question that triggered a two-hour queue at Pop Mart.
“I didn’t understand it at first. They were just weird little keychains, ugly but cute,” she said.
“Well, after queuing with hundreds of people to get one, I’d say the biggest surprise was the surprise of unboxing it, not knowing what colour it would be.
But the excitement on my niece’s face when I got the sold-out keychain made the hours of waiting worth it.”
So why has the fashion world become obsessed with something so peculiar? Cultural strategist Nina Maria believes it started as a status symbol for insiders. Early fans used a touch of ironic ugliness to assert their individuality.
“It was niche; it meant you were different,” she said. “Then K-pop stars got involved and it took off. Now they’re harder to get than tickets to Glastonbury.”
While luxury brands like Loewe and Balenciaga have also launched playful bag charms, Labubu offers a unique experience – the thrill of a treasure hunt. Buying a Labubu is not just a transaction, it’s an experience.
There’s also the financial appeal. In an age when “accessible luxury” means £600 sunglasses, a £25 Labubu bag is a more accessible way to make a fashion statement.
As Maria puts it: “We can’t afford a new bag, but we can afford accessories that make it more interesting.”
And then there’s the look. Yes, Labubu is cute – but not in a heart-breakingly sweet way, or in a soft Sanrio way. It’s ugly-cute.
Slightly grotesque, but oddly cute. “It’s more like Mary Jane,” she adds. “Ugly at first glance, super cute at second. That potential fits in with fashion.”